Why the cultivar matters
Two first-harvest Uji matchas, processed by the same grower with the same shading time, can have completely different profiles if they come from different cultivars. Gokou has a powerful umami that dominates the palate; Asahi has a creaminess reminiscent of butter; Samidori leads with a sweetness that recalls young peas. These differences are real, consistent and verifiable in a side-by-side tasting.
Before choosing a cultivar it helps to be clear on what ceremonial grade matcha is and what separates it from culinary grade: the cultivar refines a product that already has to hold up on harvest, shading and milling.
The main cultivars and their profiles
Gokou (五光 / ごこう)
Developed exclusively in the Uji region. The name refers to five kinds of light, or of flavour. It is the most sought-after cultivar for high-end ceremonial matcha. Very intense umami, deep and lasting sweetness, bright dark green. Late harvest (end of May in Uji). The planted area is small because the plant is demanding. Priced above other cultivars.
Asahi (朝日 / あさひ)
A classic Uji cultivar selected in the 1930s. Considered the tea masters’ favourite for koicha, thanks to an exceptionally creamy texture and notes of hazelnut and butter. Less umami than Gokou but more creaminess. Much valued in the Urasenke and Omotesenke schools.
Samidori (早緑 / さみどり)
The name means «early summer green», though it is picked later than Asahi. Pronounced sweetness, complex umami and an aroma of young pea. Widely used in premium Uji blends for its ability to lift the aromatic profile of the whole.
Okumidori (おくみどり)
A late cultivar with excellent green colour and balanced umami. Less astringent than Yabukita, more versatile than Gokou. Widespread in Uji, Nishio and Kagoshima. It responds well to shading.
Saemidori (さえみどり)
Developed in 1997 by the Kagoshima and Miyazaki centre. The name means «bright green», an exact description of its colour once processed. Fresh, enveloping aroma, refined umami, lower astringency. Widely grown in Kagoshima and also in Fukuoka (Yame). One of the fastest growing cultivars on the international market.
Yabukita (やぶきた)
The most planted cultivar in Japan: roughly 75% of national tea production. Selected in Shizuoka prefecture in the 1950s for its productivity and hardiness. In a first harvest it is less complex than the Uji cultivars, but its consistency and availability make it dominant in the mid-price segment.