Why the cultivar matters
Two first-harvest Uji matchas, processed by the same grower with the same shading time, can have completely different profiles if they come from different cultivars. Gokou has a powerful umami that dominates the palate; Asahi has a creaminess reminiscent of butter; Samidori leads with a sweetness that recalls young peas. These differences are real, consistent and verifiable in a side-by-side tasting.
Before choosing a cultivar it helps to be clear on what ceremonial grade matcha is and what separates it from culinary grade: the cultivar refines a product that already has to hold up on harvest, shading and milling.
What a cultivar actually is
A cultivar is a tea plant chosen for its qualities and propagated from cuttings, so every bush in the field is a copy of the same plant. The opposite is native tea (zairai), grown from seed, which gives bushes that differ from one another, each with its own budding time and flavour. The classic Uji cultivars and Yabukita came from there: someone picked, among seedlings in Uji or Shizuoka, the plant that performed best and fixed it. The more modern ones, such as Okumidori and Saemidori, are crosses made at research stations.
In Japan, varieties entered in the national register get a Norin number (from nōrin, agriculture and forestry) from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF). The Uji ones are Kyoto prefecture selections, made by its tea research institute or by local growers. The table sets out what those registers say.
The register entry for each cultivar
| Cultivar | Year | Origin | Bred or selected by | Registered use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yabukita | 1953 (Norin No. 6) | Native Shizuoka plant | Hikosaburō Sugiyama, who picked it in 1908 | Sencha |
| Asahi | 1954 | Native Uji plant | Jinnojō Hirano, Uji grower | Tencha |
| Samidori | 1954 | Native Uji plant | Masajirō Koyama, Uji grower | Tencha |
| Gokou | 1954 | Native Uji plant | Kyoto Prefectural Tea Research Institute | Gyokuro |
| Ujihikari | 1954 | Institute selection line (Kyōken 170) | Kyoto Prefectural Tea Research Institute | Tencha |
| Okumidori | 1974 (Norin No. 32) | Cross of Yabukita and a native Shizuoka plant | National tea research station at Kanaya (Shizuoka) | Sencha |
| Saemidori | 1990 (Norin No. 40) | Cross of Yabukita and Asatsuyu | National tea research station at Makurazaki (Kagoshima) | Sencha |
Sources: Kyoto Prefectural Tea Research Institute page on the Uji varieties, variety classification of the Kyoto tea chamber (Kyōto-fu Chagyō Kaigisho) and the list of Norin registrations of tea varieties. The use is the one on the register: Okumidori and Saemidori were entered as sencha varieties and are now also grown under shade for tencha.
The main cultivars and their profiles
Gokou (五光 / ごこう)
Selected by the Kyoto Prefectural Tea Research Institute from native Uji plants. The name means «five lights». The prefecture lists it among its gyokuro varieties, but it is also shaded for tencha and is one of the most sought-after cultivars for high-end ceremonial grade matcha. Very intense umami, deep and lasting sweetness, bright dark green. It buds a little later than average. The planted area is small and the price higher than for other cultivars.
Asahi (朝日 / あさひ)
A classic Uji cultivar, chosen by Jinnojō Hirano from the area’s native plants and fixed as a variety in 1954. Considered the tea masters’ favourite for koicha, thanks to an exceptionally creamy texture and notes of hazelnut and butter. Less umami than Gokou but more creaminess. The Kyoto tea chamber describes it as especially good for tencha.
Samidori (早緑 / さみどり)
The name (早緑) refers to the tender green of new shoots. Masajirō Koyama chose it from native Uji plants. Pronounced sweetness, complex umami and an aroma of young pea; in Kyoto its tencha is prized for the brightness of its colour. Widely used in premium Uji blends for its ability to lift the aromatic profile of the whole.
Okumidori (おくみどり)
A late cultivar, registered in 1974 from a Yabukita cross, with excellent green colour and balanced umami. Less astringent than Yabukita, more versatile than Gokou. Widespread in Uji, Nishio and Kagoshima. It responds well to shading.
Saemidori (さえみどり)
Registered in 1990 by the Makurazaki tea research station in Kagoshima, from a cross between Yabukita and Asatsuyu. The name means «bright green», an exact description of its colour once processed. Fresh, enveloping aroma, refined umami, lower astringency. Widely grown in Kagoshima and also in Fukuoka (Yame).
Yabukita (やぶきた)
The most planted cultivar in Japan: according to MAFF’s annual report on agriculture for fiscal 2013, it covered around 75% of the country’s tea area. Hikosaburō Sugiyama chose it in 1908 from native Shizuoka plants, and it was registered in 1953 as Norin No. 6. In a first harvest it is less complex than the Uji cultivars, but its consistency and availability make it dominant in the mid-price segment.
Single cultivar or blend
A good share of the matcha on sale is not single cultivar. Producers blend lots from different fields and varieties (gōgumi, in Japanese) so that the flavour stays the same from one year to the next, much as a whisky distiller blends casks. When a matcha is single cultivar, the label usually says so, because it is a selling point.
So the cultivar tells you a lot about a single-cultivar matcha and little about a blend. If the label names it, you can expect the profile this guide describes. If it does not, look first at the harvest, the shading and the milling, which weigh more in the cup; we explain them in ceremonial vs culinary grade.
Which cultivar to look for, depending on how you drink it
- Koicha: Asahi or Gokou, for the creamy texture and an umami that holds up in a thick preparation. How to make it is in the koicha guide.
- Everyday usucha: Okumidori, Saemidori or Samidori, which bring sweetness, colour and little astringency at a more reasonable price.
- Lattes or baking: milk and sugar hide the differences between cultivars; a Yabukita or an unnamed blend does the job.
- To learn to tell them apart: taste two single-cultivar matchas side by side, at the same dose and with water at 70 °C.
Each region leans towards its own cultivars: Uji towards its local selections, Yame and Kagoshima towards Saemidori, Nishio towards Okumidori. The producer map places each area.
To see how the cultivar shows up in the cup, the best ceremonial matcha ranking scores every brand with the same formula, from Yame Saemidori to Uji blends.